Cul Beag

I had been waiting for a hill like you to come into my life.....feeling musical tonight. A week in Achiltibuie meant brief escapades with permission to bag hills and be home within the 5 hour limit. Deal. Previous deposits made into the emotional bank account meant a withdrawal was not going to put me overdrawn. The road back from aforementioned community to the main road is a 16-mile single track road, which is hard to drive quick on - unless of course you are local, for which the laws of physics and etiquette are defied. The weather was certainly mixed - torrential downpours with sun splitting the skies - this would have to be finely timed. I left the car just West of the cottage at Linnerainneach and tramped along the road until I detected the excellent stalker's path. Rampaging across the glen, I reached the small lochan agus climbed towards the steep face of Cul Beag. It is a domineering peak from this direction and any hope of attempting Lurgainn Edge were dashed when the rain enveloped me. I made for the North bealach and bade hello to a rambling club instead. 

From the bealach, things began to get rather beautiful indeed. The views North and West to Stac Pollaidh and Suilven irrespectively were stunning. Then, the heavens opened up and the temperature dropped several degrees. I was thankful for my Winter gear! The steep path zig-zagged but gained height rapidly. Hard to believe but I was at the summit within 75 minutes, privy to a fierce wind, which announced Winter was on its way. From here, it was a tremendous vista across Inverpolly. Some of the finest views of Scotland for me. There is something quite magical about Coigach and beyond - here there be faeries and dragons and ex-girlfriends who make Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction look positively adorable. I climbed round to the South-West prow and admired the huge drop below me. I had suggested to Slawek, a WHlander, that we could do this together but I had to take the opportunity to grab this and when we eventually met up to do Canisp, several days later, he mentioned that he was disappointed on more than one occasion. However, sorry seemed to be the hardest word for me and I thoroughly enjoyed my solo rocket-man day out. While company is fine, I am beginning to realise that my time, is my time and it affords a mental re-charging of the batteries, the soul and the spirit. Basically, I am an unsociable sod. The descent back to the car was tinged with sadness that another beautiful experience in this amazing area was at an end. A fantastic sortie. Not to mention, the most divine post-hill fish supper experience in Ullapool. And a pickle - does life get any better?

Poles apart on Canisp

I was off to do Canisp with a local lad, Slawek. Originally from Poland, he had been here for 6 years and was settled into Scottish life with his girlfriend. Indeed, such was his nous for things Scottish, that he corrected me on my use of the Gaelic - hats off. We met at the car park just N of Loch Awe and began the very boggy tramp over the first km. Unfortunately, Slawek's poles were gubbed and were confined to his backpack. After that, the ground was as stony for such a prolonged time as I can ever recall being on a hill. Our quick pace and chance to catch up about all things hummocky, footbally and lifey meant that it wasn't long before we were on the shoulder of the hill and approaching the last 1km. Unfortunately, what started out as a nice enough day turned into a pea-souper and our summit view was the inside of the admittedly lovely cairn. I was convinced that we could wait and the grand view of Suilven would come into focus. While, fleeting glimpses of the North face and the lochs appeared and offered hope, we were denied for another day. All that remained was the easy trudge back to the car via a 'look' at the North-Easterly screes. This was a simple day out which offered much but a chance to return in Winter on a clear day is definitely on the cards.