Beinn Mheadhonach and the Tarf bothy

A few weeks ago, a plan had been conjured by Darren and I to grab the 2 Munros beside the Tarf bothy. We would go in over Mheadhonach with his wife and two dogs. A pleasant meander was had all the way Gilbert's Bridge before we moved off this track and on to another into Glen Mairc. Twas only 5km to this point and it felt like we were in Middle Earth. Wonderful. Finally, the further we walked into the glen, the more we could see Mheadhonach open up with Beinn a Chait looking lovely - yet, not even mentioned in any guide book - the folly of sticking to hills in books. We crossed over an old bridge and let the dogs take on some water before the hard work began. With the heavy packs, I found the going very tough. The dogs were pulling Darren and Emma up but their superior fitness was telling. A week sitting on my arse catches up.

Eventually, we reached the plateau - the skies were stunning. This must rank as one of the more isolated Corbetts and it was a fabulous hill. At 901m, we could see over to Beinn a Ghlo and beyond.

As we moved over the plateau, we felt blessed and the hard work was behind me although not for Darren and Emma - the dogs pulled them over the tussocks and therefore made for hard work. We reached a loch and headed over a small hill and down to the river Tarf. From here, it was a 2.5 mile walk to the bothy and we arrived just as it was getting dark. An obstinate fire eventually kicked in and with food, a dram and some mince pies we chatted away with some music until 2045, where it was lights out. Not before Milo the giant schnauzer ate Emma's mince pie, tin foil and all. Oops.

Quinag

I had really been looking forward to doing the Quinag experience. I had recently obtained a copy of the Corbetts book published by Cicerone and it was a very good guide to the hill. What I also like about this book is that the author provides some history around some of the Corbetts north of the Great Glen but is honest enough to admit if he hasn't taken in certain parts. I had viewed the hill from every angle during recent sojourns to the North-West and I would finally set foot on this grand mountain. The approach path from the car park is stupendous and I branched off left at the cairn, while the first view of Spidean Coinich opened up. The meander over the slabs is enjoyable and affords an easy ascent on the shoulder of the 'milk pail'. Once at the shoulder, views across to Suilven really opened up. A steeper amble brought me up on the 1st Corbett and impressive views across the rest of the day's objective. A steepish descent and then ascent up on to peak 715 allows for an exquisite view back to where the walker has just come.

From the middle of the Euro, it's a nice amble over towards the 2nd Corbett, if one is leaving the middle Corbett until the end. Between peak 715 and the 2nd Corbett, the promontory West allows for absolutely stunning views across the North-West, the numerous lochans and a real feel of space and wilderness. I was reluctant to press on - for me, the views here are as good if not better than anything on the Aonach Eagach. It truly was a stunning hill. I pushed on to the 2nd Corbett and could now see the cliffs of Sail Gharbh opening up, where I would soon finish my walk. I reversed my route and began the last climb on to this 3rd Corbett - interesting change of geology halfway along the ridge with red scree giving way to grey quartzite. From here, Arkle, Foinaven and beyond can be easily viewed. All that remained was to complete the route and return back home. I had read a report that of over 650 hills, a chap considered Quinag to be in his top ten. I would wholeheartedly concur. This is a truly magnificent hill, which has it all and one that I would do again and again.

Fraoch Bheinn and Sgurr na-Cos Breach Laoigh

Although I was due to meet Daz at a pre-defined grid reference for our wild camp on Sgurr Beag, I knew I'd be up at Loch Arkaig at least 4 hours ahead of him. This meant that I could go in over at least one of the Corbetts - as the weather was fair, I decided on combining Fraoch Bheinn and the unpronouncable Sgurr. It was warm but raining so I had to put on the waterproof - mistake no. 1 - I was now boil-in-the-bag hot and started slurping the water.

It was quite a steep haul up to the summit of FB but views back to Streap were worth it. Once at the top of the hill, I decided on a more or less direct descent West, which was very steep in places. Half an hour of sustained hammering on the thighs and my legs were pretty battered. At the bealach between these two hills, it is about 400m but with the evening sunshine, cleg and midge clouds, I felt like I was broiling in hell. The ascent on to the shoulder of Sgurr-na CBL was nice once on to the ridge and a welcoming breeze banished the insecticidae. At about 800m, I was walking along to the Cioch, when I had a terrible cramp in my thighs. I sat down, took my first proper rest after 4 hours and consumed a rehydration powder. This wasn't enough and the balls of cramp were going nowhere - even sitting was agony. "I'll need a medevac, Kev!" After about 10 minutes, I got up and things relaxed a little. The climb over to the summit was nice with views over to Sgurr Mor and beyond becoming really nice. The view back along the Corbett to its South summit and crags was lovely. From here, I still had the descent and ascent to An Eag to do but that is covered here: http://www.munromadness.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/sgurr-mor-and-sgurr-nan-coireachean.html.

Dun da Gaoithe/Sgurr Dearg then Reach for the Dead

On my second day in Mull, I hooked up with IainK and decided on a point-to-point over the Corbett and Graham. The literature and anecdotes suggested that the ground in between could be rough going and the 6m step, 50m North of the Graham summit was a bit tricky. As with most things in Scottish hill folklore, this was very much a pile of bollocks. The land rover track wends halfway up Dun da Gaoithe and allows for a quick romp to 560m mark. Unfortunately, we were above the cloud for quite a bit of the trek but nevertheless, we enjoyed our time on the hill. we left our backpacks at the trigpoint and began the walk out to the summit cairn, 1 km distant. It was a nice airy walk along the edge of the coire, which is a huge expanse. We returned quickly to grab the packs and began the descent off Dun da Gaoithe. By keeping to the West, we missed any potential difficulties but the route was obvious and helpfully, it was dry. I suppose under wet conditions, it could be tricky but so is the disabled ramp at my local Tesco. Our climb up on to Sgurr Dearg was interrupted by lunch and a chance to sit and enjoy the view down into Glen Forsa. Two suicidal sheep were spotted amongst the rockfall North of the summit of our next objective, quite happily munching on whatever grass could be taken.

Things steepened as we approached the mauvais pas but it was little more than an enjoyable scramble virtually up on the summit area and cairn.

As we moved away, the sun eventually came out and warmed our faces. We descended down into Glen Forsa with Beinn Talaidh becoming bigger by the minute. I had enjoyed my day and was happy to head for the car but Iain turned on the after-burners and went for Beinn Talaidh too. He arrived back at the car one hour after me, which afforded time to listen to the Boards of Canada's new album. Bliss. A very fine day where I could 'Reach for the Dead'.

Beinn a Choin wild camp

Graeme and I met up at Inverlochlarig and left his car there. The 57-mile drive to Stronachlachar defies sense, with the distance between cars now down to approximately 8 miles as the crow flies. Unfortunately, we can't fly but we began the walk up on the Beinn a Choin from Garrison. A fairly steep plod with the heavy packs and temperate weather saw us on to Stob a Fhaine 1.5 hours after departure. The Corbett proper was still a wee walk away but with views across to Beinn Lui and the Arrochar alps, it was a lovely evening. From this viewpoint, Ben Lomond has an impressive North face and one which would look fabulous from its neighbouring Graham, Cruinn Bheinn - a future Winter sojourn, I think. We reached the large summit cairn as the sun was setting and a cold wind blew in. A phone call home and then we made the descent down off the hill into a sheltered glen, just below the bealach nan corp. At 2200, we had set up camp and settled down to have a couple of beers, catching up on the previous months events. At 2300, we were both a little chilled out, temperature and mind-wise. It was time for kip, with the knowledge of one in the bag before bed.

Beinn Iaruinn

After a business trip to Inverness, I was hoping to nab Gairich on the way back down but inclement weather put paid to that. The cloud level was sitting at about 850m and so I scratched my heid, wondering what I could do. Glen Roy sprang to mind as I hadn't done anything up there and the long and winding road brought me to the bottom of Beinn Iaruinn. I remember the SMC book saying it was straight up. It was. However, the good thing was the rapid height gained and looking over to the glen, I could see the Parallel Roads stretching the length of the glen, as well as future hills. Once past the steep ascent, I made my way round the coire rim to the large cairn and sat just out of the wind. It was a nice place to have some food and relax. I reversed my route but came down the stream-bed, between the Graham, Leana Mhor. I didn't know it was a Graham, otherwise I would have tagged it on. No matter, I'll be back into the area to mop up in future years.

Beinn Damh

I'm not sure how many WalkHighland meets there have been since I attended the very first one at the Tarf hotel but this was only my 3rd time en personne. It may have been the fear of having to share my Highland Park or falling prey to the seemingly prevalent norovirus bug at these meetings but I was determined to get along and meet old and new faces. Having completed Slioch the previous day with Pete Tindall, Jupe1407, Sunny Speyside and sun (sic), we were indeed blessed. As were many others who described the conditions perhaps no more eloquently than Graeme D, when I asked how he was getting on by mobile phone. "Porn, hardcore porn." I was hoping he had left the house in Perth - thankfully he had. Anyway, what occurred to me during the evening's aperitifs and digestifs was that some fowk preferred to be called by their avatar. Take Tina Bonar for example. A fair damsel? Na na, some bloke fae the East coast with his lovely Colleen. Alan was ScotJamie and Jupe1407 was in fact John followed by his birthdate. He was either looking good for his 606 years or he had some terrible form of gigantism/progeria and was in fact 5. I've set the scene. So, having decided to do Liathach, Beinn Eighe, Beinn na-h-Eaglaise all on the Saturday, I found myself on Beinn Damh with Ewan, Sunny Speyside's loon. We decided he should be called 'Sexysue'. We said adieu to his mither as she headed for the Graham and Ewan led us up the first 550m at full whack. At 551m, Ewan's young energetic zest gave way to inexperience and the older statesman took up the reins  . We stopped at 600m, with fantastic views back over to aforementioned hills and Beinn Bhan to the West. The climb up and around the 1st peak was straightforward, with a biting wind. Once we headed over towards the coire wall, we were struck by the majestic North-west face plunging away before us. With Maol Chin Dearg behind in the distance, it was a beautiful view. We pushed on to the summit and took tea and nourishment. The view from the summit was stupendous and I think Ewan had been spoiled the day before and that day. We decided to reverse the route but go back down the other side of Toll Ban. As we approached that summit, we happened upon 3 young blokes. One of them announced that he wasn't suitably attired i.e he was wearing jimmies and joggy bottoms. Thus, Ewan and I were introduced to a man called Fanny. Unfortunately, Fanny was accompanied by Fanny Twa and Fanny Thra - hills in Winter claes are not for boys wi jimmies n joggies and one 20 litre rucksack between 3. I did not admonish as I think my expression said it all. Ewan and I pushed on and down the ridge which was good fun but did require careful footing and ice axes. As we levelled out and got back on to the track, all that remained was to look back and see where Fannyoola and troops were. They had seen sense and descended after us, especially as the snow had moved in. A celebratory half at the Torridon, a sublime burger and I was on my way home with the 230 mile journey ahead of me. A rather enjoyable two days in Torridon. I look forward to the next trip to see old and new faces, irrespective of name.

Farragon Hill & Meall Tairneachain

It had been a couple of months since I had been on the Corbetts and a meeting with a friend from Perth meant we could start 2013 in the best fashion. We sighted a point to point over these two hills, which meant dropping cars off at either end. I have never been through Dull but it is twinned with Boring in Oregon. Who knew? Our walk started West to East and a rather steep ascent up the land rover track saw us emerging from the tree-line very promptly, with a lovely view back to Schiehallion. In getting to that point, it had allowed us to catch up since April and clearly, a lot had happened to both of us. The meandering of the mind can be a tortuous journey and the hill was exactly the catharsis we both needed. Business prospects involving outdoors pursuits were mooted but only the daft/brave relinquish a decent salary and pension.

Before long, we were actually at the trig point and had a lovely view over to our second hill and North to Beinn a Ghlo. The wind was chilly and we stopped only to layer up and have a quick bite to eat. Our trip to the second Corbett saw us heading past the unsightly barytes mine and a rather comical stumble and headbutt by myself on poor Graeme's rucksack. Tairneachain is a pretty hill from this angle and the last bit of ascent saw us at the small cairn after 3.5 hours of walking. We sought shelter for lunch and Lucy the lab was salivating. A nice descent saw us back at another land rover track and the meander back to the car. A lovely wee walk which blew away the cobwebs and allowed us the chance to clear the mind once again.